Tuesday 4th May 2010
7.35am
Outdoor dining table, the Korean monastery
Lumbini, Nepal
This morning I am a little tired. I took breakfast at 6am so rose at 5.30ish to wash. It was the first time I took breakfast here on the my second visit. Usually I just drink tea all morning until lunch (11.30am) but not today.
Since breakfast I've hand washed some clothes in my room and hung them out to dry over our first floor balcony.
I didn't do a great job scrubbing out the stains I think, especially in my whites, but the most important thing is to remove the smell of sweat.
The main factor for my slight state of tiredness is due to not sleeping that well. The buzz of the flies, midges and mosquitoes as well as other flying terrors in our room albeit outside of our mosquito nets seemed louder than the infernal din of central Calcutta with all its horns, traders and wailing masses.
In contrast to that irritation however me and Martin (the German guy in the room) were last night able to really hear and absorb the sounds of the nature around us.
I was reading on the balcony after sunset, somewhere in the chapter of Vanity Fair that talks about Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens and from the...
...okay I've moved into the indoor dining room to continue writing.
Something about the morning sun seems more striking today...
...temple which is shrouded in darkness at night came the sound of monkeys, jackals, wild dogs and all kinds of exotic monsters all at the same time. Stark noises competing with the usually hum of the mosquitoes and bugs sprawling through the undergrowth that accompany every nightfall in every sub-tropical climate.
The noises were quite magnificent.
It was clear the animals in question, what ever they were, were inside the main temple building, which is at this stage a large concrete shell and thus empty at night. We could see nothing. It was pitch black. But we could hear everything.
Out of the blue one more than one occasion during the night we could hear in unison the collective screaming, screeching and wailing of some pack of animals from somewhere nearby.
At night there are very few lights on.
Around the park containing all the temples here is a high red brick wall, but on the western side (the opposite side from the town, bus stop and main park entrance) it is ill maintained and the gates are often open. So animals of any nature can come and go as they please. Besides the park is so big and in large parts remains uncultivated making it a playground as much for animals as humans.
The noises at night here are the kind that make you wonder what is out there, because when you hear what ever it is out there it is not something you can put your finger on. How often at the zoo do we hear animals screaming, shouting and roaring like they probably do in the wild?
In my experience Zoo animals have always seems so docile.
The sounds of the animals though really are quite beautiful. It is like listening to a concert brought to you by nature and all the things you find in the Jungle Book. It can make it hard to sleep though.
The Maoists strike action, closing most shops and transport routes appears to still be ongoing. I'll find out more details for myself later.
Yesterday all shops appeared closed when I went to buy a Pepsi, some biscuits and a new pen. If the worst comes to the worst I'll have to take an expensive cycle-rickshaw to the Indian border tomorrow.
I went to the library again yesterday. No one else goes. I sign my name in the guest book and only my name has been entered into it in the past week. The security guards recognise me. Looking back through the guest book entries it is clear one or two others have hung around for a while like me.
They bought me not only a chai yesterday but also a one litre bottle of water as opposed to the standard 600ml.
When I arrived at the library I wasn't feeling so enthusiastic, but soon came across several books that I wanted to delve into. However I only got through a couple of chapters of one. So I'll go back early today.
The head researcher (I assume that is what is he) spoke with me yesterday. I don't know his name. He's German and has been in Nepal 27 odd years.
He seems pleased someone is taking an interest in the library and Buddhism. Today he'll show me some research and restoration material relating to the Tabo Monastery in the Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh. A place I'd like to visit.
Some of the world's finest examples of Tibetan Art exist there, or so I read. I bet I can't take photos of it all though.
I wonder if my Olympus compact is up to the job.
I'll write down all the book titles.
Anyway, it'll be nice to spend one more day reading.
As I walked back to the monastery here yesterday I had a great feeling of contentment inside me. All due I think to my recent regular routine, no hassle from people in the street, a feeling that I am learning a lot about Buddhism, and being able to read many books. All very enjoyable. It has given me a great deal of satisfaction to be here again.
Finally...yes...I read some really good stuff about Buddhist ethics yesterday also about the last Mughal in India so I'll dive into those respective books in a minute.
There are no mirrors in our dorms here, but today I looked at my reflection in one of the communal mirrors in one of the bathrooms and realised my eyes appear so much more healthy than when I was glued to a computer in South Korea everyday.
Footnote: When back in England buy a big bucket. Washing each morning by pouring a big bucket of water of my head really is quite refreshing.
My next entry may not be until I am in Amritsar or still marooned here, though I'll write from the train if I've the energy and comfort to do so.